Installation Instructions Angle / Angle Loc for Laminate Flooring | Download as pdf |
I. Before you start
Keep the boards in room temperature for at least 48 hours in unopened package before you start the installation. The room temperature must be at least 65 degrees before and during installation. For floors surfaces exceeding 100sqmt (1076sqft.) and/or at lengths exceeding 10m (33ft.) and overlaps to new rooms and floor surface which do not join symmetrically, use expansion joints to divide the floor sections.
- Inspect your subfloor before you begin. It must be clean, dry and level to within 5mm (3/16”) within a 3 meters (10 foot) span.
- It is recommended to repair any loose boards or squeaks before you begin installation.
- With a floating floor you must always ensure you leave a 1cm (3/8”) gap between walls and fixtures such as pipes, pillers, stairs, etc... Tip: When installing around pipes, drill the holes 20 mm (3/4”) larger than the diameter of the pipes.
- Choose an underlay material.
- Relative Humidity Levels of your room should be maintained at 35-60 % at 18-24 °C (65 degrees to 75 degrees Fahrenheit).
- Decide the installation direction. It is recommended to install the length direction of the planks parallel to the main light direction.
- Measure the area to be installed. The board width of last row shall not be less than 2" (50mm), If so, adjust the width of the first row to be installed. When measuring take the free gap requirement of about 3/8" (10mm) of the floor perimeter into account. In narrow hallways, install the floor parallel to the lengthways.
- Inspect your laminate flooring. No claims relating to surface defects will be accepted after installation.
Subfloors with radiant heat
IMPORTANT: Due to the speed of sudden temperature changes, which has potential to negatively affect laminate flooring construction, it is not recommended to install with electrical radiant heating system. This will not be covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. Below instructions is for radiant heating system using water.
Ensure the radiant heat surface temperature never exceeds 27 degrees celsius(81 degrees Farenheit). Before installing over newly constructed radiant heat systems, operate the system at maximum capacity to force any residual moisture from the cementitious topping of the radiant heat system. Then set the thermostat to a comfortable room temperature for the installation. It is recommended that the radiant heat be applied in a gradual manner after installing the laminate flooring. Refer to the radiant heat system’s manufacturer recommendations for additional guidance.
II. Floating installation
Begin by first installing a foam underlay. Run the foam underlay in the same direction as the flooring planks. The underlay should be butted side-by-side with no overlap. Tape seams together. If you are installing over a concrete subfloor, a 6-mil poly (plastic sheeting) is to be installed under the foam underlay. (Many foam underlays already have this plastic sheeting pre-attached).
Remember when installing your laminate floor to leave an open expansion gap of min 10mm (3/8") around the perimeter of the room (use wedges), i.e also at pipes, stairs, columns, doorframes and thresholds. The floor must be able to move free - do not connect or install tight to any construction part. Install to a maximum of 33ft ( Approx. 10m) length /width at a time. If the room is larger, allow for an expansion gap which can be covered with the appropriate laminate T-mold. Also leave an expansion gap to separate areas in rooms that are off square (for example L-,F-, T-, U- shapes) Always leave expansion gaps in door openings.
1. After cleaning the sub floor you can roll over the underlay. The underlay has to overlap 20-30cm (7 7/8”- 11 13/16”).
2. Begin laying in the left-hand corner. Place the floorboard 10 mm (3/8”) from the left wall. Use spacers between the wall and the floorboard.
3. Insert the end section of the next floorboard at an angle to the first one, then lay down. Complete the first row in the same matter
4. Place the final floorboard face down and the short side without the locking strip towards the wall. The distance from the end of the plank to the wall should be 10 mm (3/8”) Mark where the floorboard is to be cut.
5. Place the floorboard face down on the work surface and cut to size using an electric saw. If you are using a fine-tooth hand saw, cut the floorboards face up.
6. Use a cut piece of board from the previous row to start the next row. This must be at least 30cm long. If the piece is too short, start with a new board, cut in half. Always ensure that the end joints are staggered at least 30cm (12”) .
7. Place the floorboard at an angle against the floorboard in the previous row, press forward and fold down at the same time
8. Place the short end of the floorboard at an angle against the previous installed floorboard and fold down. Ensure that the board is positioned in the integral locking strip of the floorboard in the previous row
9. Lift floorboard (together with the previous laid in the same row) slightly up (about 30mm or 1”) and push it again the row in front. Put it down when the floorboards are positioned tightly together.
10. To lay the last row: position a loose board exactly on top of the last row laid. Place another board on top, with the tongue side touching the wall. Draw a line along the edge of this board, to mark the first board. Cut along the edge of this board, to mark the first board. Cut along this lone to obtain of the required width. Insert this cut board against the wall. The spacers can then be removed.
11. Holes for pipes: measure the diameter of the pipe and drill a hole that is 10mm or 3/8” larger. Saw off a piece as shown in the figure and lay the board in place on the floor. Then lay the sawed-off piece in place.
12. Door moldings and skirting boards: Most doorjams/door moldings will need to be undercut to ensure correct expansion. Lay a board (with the decorative side down) next to the door moldings and saw as shown in the figure. Then slide the floor board under moldings.
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